AFRICAN hair is traditionally curly, more susceptible to damage when subjected to harsh chemical treatments or alterations such as Relaxing, Tinting, wet brushing, back combing and more. The result can be thinning hair, breakage, and in extreme cases alopecia or bald patches.Hair breakage, especially at the hairline can be distressing. When hair loss becomes severe, and large tufts of hair fall out or bald patches (alopecia) begin to form, the pain is more profound. While wigs offer temporary succor, it is often wise to search for the reasons for hair loss, breakage or other damage.One of the most common reasons is chemical reaction. When hair is straightened with the aid of chemical relaxers (lye or no lye products), the structure of the hair is changed and in part damaged. The hair instantly becomes more brittle and porous and so it needs to be propped up with nourishing conditioners, especially the protein based types. Use professional styling services as where stylists do not understand the effect of the relaxers, they tend to commit several blunders that set the hair up for long term damage. In most salons, these stylists scrimp on water and do not rinse clients' hair thoroughly, thus the hair retains some of the chemical which goes on processing the hair. Over processing weakens the hair and leads to breakage.Another cause for hair loss is colouring that is badly done or managed. The chemicals in the dye often alter the hair shaft in a way that damages it. Careful conditioning, using products designed for tinted hair will restore health to the hair. If hair is dyed, shampoo it when necessary using dye-specific products. Seek professional advice when touching up tinted hair with chemical relaxers and follow through with the right conditioning process.Braids or extensions that are too tight can lead to hairline breakage. Wearing a particular style for too long or leaving braids and extensions in for too long, can also lead to damage. Vary hairstyles frequently. Where hairline breakage has occurred, avoid styling options that pull on the fragile tresses that remain. These include Ghana weaving, ponytail styles (packing gel) and micro braids or twists. Protect hair by choosing options that are more hairline friendly such as side parts, roller sets, woven styles with 'brush' at the hairline. The same rule applies if the breakage is from the back, but here you can take a break from sleeping on your back and sleep in a sideways position instead.Protect your hair by being savvy. Insist that hair be rinse thoroughly. Where possible buy your own shampoo and conditioning treatments and demand that these are used on your hair.Ensure that straightened hair is conditioned each time it is shampooed and use shampoos that are moisturizing. Always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment a fortnight after a new touch up. You could also ask your stylist for advice on the right protein treatment to use when a touch up is done.Avoid excessive exposure to heated appliances such as blow dryers, hair dryers, flat irons and curling irons. If you must use these regularly, have protecting conditioners handy and ensure that hair is well coated before heat is applied.Where hair is breaking badly, be bold and have the ends trimmed off. If you find that the damage is a result of using chemical relaxers, snip off damaged ends and take a rest from the chemicals. Have extensions sewn in or use a wig for a while. You may also want to go to the opposite end and grow out the straightened hair, and wear your hair 'virgin' for some months before using relaxers again. There are several styling options to choose if this course is decided upon, from dreadlocks, temporary or permanent; to braids, cropped cuts, Afros or corn rows and twists. If this is the way forward, then shop for products designed for virgin hair.If all fails, invest in some good wigs. Have the hair woven into inverted corn rows (known locally as di di) to protect it while the wig is worn. Note that modern wigs are more hair friendly but they should not be worn daily. The scalp and hair should be allowed to 'breathe' regularly to prevent the growth of bacteria and other scalp irritants, so have some days when you carry your natural hair.
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